Leopard Gecko Care Guide: Complete Beginner's Manual

Leopard geckos are among the most popular pet reptiles—and for good reason. They're docile, manageable, and have adorable "smiling" faces. With proper care, they can live 20+ years.

Here's your complete guide to leopard gecko care.

Why Leopard Geckos Make Great Pets

Easy to Handle

• Rarely bite (and it doesn't hurt if they do)
• Tolerate regular handling
• Move slowly enough to track
• Don't require huge enclosures

Low Maintenance (Relatively)

• No UVB required (though beneficial)
• Eat a few times per week as adults
• Don't need constant humidity
• Quiet and don't smell

Beautiful Variety

Leopard geckos come in dozens of morphs (color variations):

• Normal (wild type)
• High Yellow
• Tangerine
• Albino varieties
• Blizzard (patternless)
• Mack Snow
• And many more

Enclosure Setup

Size Requirements

Floor space matters more than height for these ground dwellers.

Enclosure Types

• Glass tanks (monitor humidity carefully)
• Plastic tubs (excellent for humidity)
• PVC enclosures (premium option)

Essential Setup

Three hides (critical!):

• Warm side hide
• Cool side hide
• Humid hide (for shedding—moist paper towel inside)

Water dish: Shallow, refreshed regularly

Substrate options:

• Paper towel (easy, safe, cheap)
• Tile (holds heat, files nails naturally)
• Reptile carpet (clean regularly)
• Topsoil/play sand mix (adults only, controversial)

Avoid:

• Loose sand alone (impaction risk)
• Calcium sand (causes impaction)
• Walnut shells
• Wood chips

Temperature (Critical!)

Leopard geckos are ectothermic—they need external heat sources to digest food and maintain health.

Temperature Gradient

Heat Sources

Under-tank heater (UTH) with thermostat:

• Most common method
• Provides belly heat for digestion
• MUST use thermostat (prevents burns)

Overhead heating (ceramic heat emitter, deep heat projector):

• More naturalistic
• Also requires thermostat

No heat rocks (burn risk) No colored bulbs (disrupt day/night cycle)

Thermostats Are Essential

NEVER use a heat source without a thermostat. Unregulated heat causes burns and overheating.

Lighting

UVB: Optional but Beneficial

Unlike many reptiles, leopard geckos can survive without UVB. However, research suggests benefits:

• Better calcium metabolism
• More natural behavior
• Overall health improvement

If providing UVB:

• Low output (5-7%)
• 10-12 hours daily
• Replace every 6-12 months

Day/Night Cycle

Provide a light cycle:

• 12 hours light / 12 hours dark (roughly)
• Room lighting is usually sufficient
• No lights at night (they're crepuscular/nocturnal)

Diet

What to Feed

Leopard geckos are insectivores:

Staple feeders:

• Crickets
• Dubia roaches (excellent, low odor)
• Black soldier fly larvae (nutritious)

Occasional treats:

• Mealworms (fatty, limit these)
• Waxworms (very fatty, only occasionally)
• Hornworms (good hydration)
• Silkworms

Gut Loading

Critical: Feed the insects nutritious foods before feeding them to your gecko:

• Fresh vegetables (carrots, squash, greens)
• Commercial gut load products
• Feed insects 24-48 hours before offering

Supplements

Calcium powder (without D3):

• Available in dish at all times
• Lightly dust feeders at most feedings

Calcium with D3 (if no UVB):

• Dust feeders 1-2x weekly

Multivitamin:

• 1-2x weekly

Feeding Schedule

Shedding

Normal Process

Leopard geckos shed every 2-4 weeks (more often when growing):

1. Colors become dull/pale
2. Skin loosens
3. Gecko eats shed (normal and healthy)

Humid Hide

Provide a humid hide:

• Enclosed container with entrance hole
• Damp paper towel or moss inside
• Check daily and re-moisten as needed

Stuck Shed

If shed doesn't come off completely:

• Soak in lukewarm water (5-10 minutes)
• Gently assist with damp cotton swab
• Check toes and tail tip especially
• Stuck toe shed can cause toe loss

Handling

When to Start

Wait 2-3 weeks after bringing a new gecko home before handling. Let them settle first.

How to Handle

1. Approach slowly from the side
2. Scoop from below (don't grab from above)
3. Support the whole body
4. Let them walk hand to hand
5. Keep sessions short (5-15 minutes)

Signs of Stress

• Tail waving (defensive warning)
• Vocalizations (squeaking)
• Biting
• Tail drop (if extreme)

Tail Drop

Leopard geckos can drop their tails when severely stressed:

• The tail will grow back (but look different)
• Keep handling gentle to avoid this
• If it happens, ensure clean enclosure to prevent infection

Health

Signs of a Healthy Leopard Gecko

• Bright, alert eyes
• Plump, fat tail (fat storage)
• Clear nostrils
• Active during evening/night
• Eating regularly
• Clean vent

Common Health Issues

Metabolic Bone Disease (MBD):

• Cause: Insufficient calcium/D3
• Signs: Weak limbs, jaw deformity, tremors
• Prevention: Proper supplementation

Impaction:

• Cause: Ingesting loose substrate, low temps
• Signs: Not pooping, lethargy, bloat
• Prevention: Safe substrate, proper temps

Parasites:

• Common in new geckos
• Signs: Weight loss, runny stool, lethargy
• Treatment: Fecal test and medication from vet

Respiratory Infections:

• Cause: Low temps, high humidity, stress
• Signs: Mucus, wheezing, lethargy

Stuck Shed:

• Prevention: Humid hide
• Treatment: Soaking, gentle assistance

When to See a Vet

• Not eating for 2+ weeks
• Weight loss (thin tail)
• Visible injuries
• Breathing problems
• Symptoms listed above

Find a reptile-experienced vet before you need one. The Association of Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians (ARAV) maintains a directory of qualified herp vets.

Common Mistakes

1. No thermostat on heat source (burn risk)
2. Heat from above only (belly heat aids digestion)
3. Loose substrate for babies (impaction)
4. Only mealworms (too fatty, addictive)
5. No calcium supplementation (causes MBD)
6. Cohabitation (don't house together—stress and fighting)
7. Handling too soon (causes stress)
8. No humid hide (stuck shed)

Buying a Leopard Gecko

Where to Buy

Reputable breeders: Best option for health and variety Reptile expos: Meet breeders, see geckos in person Pet stores: Possible, but less information on genetics/history

What to Look For

• Clear eyes
• Plump tail
• Alert and responsive
• Clean nostrils and vent
• No visible injuries or stuck shed

Avoid

• Extremely thin tails (malnourished)
• Lethargic behavior
• Mucus around nose/mouth
• Sharing tank with sick-looking animals

The Bottom Line

Leopard geckos thrive with:

1. Proper enclosure (20+ gallons, 3 hides)
2. Correct temperatures (88-92°F warm side, 75-80°F cool)
3. Belly heat (with thermostat-controlled UTH or overhead)
4. Insect diet (gut-loaded, supplemented)
5. Humid hide (for shedding)
6. Regular handling (builds trust)

With proper care, your leopard gecko can be a calm, beautiful companion for 15-20+ years.

Related: Bearded Dragon Care Guide Related: Ball Python Care Guide

Frequently Asked Questions

Do leopard geckos need a heat lamp or heat mat?

Leopard geckos need belly heat for proper digestion, which makes a regulated under-tank heat mat or overhead heat source essential. The warm side of their enclosure should be 88-92°F with a cool side around 75°F. Always use a thermostat with any heat source to prevent burns—unregulated heat mats can reach dangerous temperatures. Overhead deep heat projectors are increasingly preferred as they provide a more natural heat gradient.

How often do leopard geckos eat?

Juvenile leopard geckos should eat daily, while healthy adults eat every 2-3 days. Feed appropriately sized insects (no wider than the space between their eyes) such as mealworms, dubia roaches, and crickets. Always dust insects with calcium powder at most feedings and with a calcium-vitamin D3 supplement once or twice a week to prevent Metabolic Bone Disease.

Why is my leopard gecko not eating?

Common reasons include incorrect enclosure temperatures (too cold for proper digestion), stress from a new environment, shedding (they often fast before and during a shed), and brumation (a winter slowdown period). Check that your warm side is 88-92°F, provide hiding spots for security, and wait a few days before worrying. If fasting persists beyond 2 weeks with weight loss, consult a reptile veterinarian.